Sunday, February 26, 2012

Cooking 101: always add banana

Joyeux Noël! (Merry Christmas!)
En Martinique, the greeting "Joyeux Noël" or just "Joyeux" can be used every day. This is both a joke and also as an expression of love and genuine interest in the other person. As Joby's brother explained to me, the joy associated with Christmastime can be shared all year round-- so why not?

Le Musée de la Banane
Yesterday I went with a few folks to Le Musée de la Banane in Sainte-Marie. I definitely want to come back here next week with my two sisters, so I don't want to spoil it to much. So let me just say that it was fascinating. Of course, my pictures do not do it justice, but it was a kind of beauty that I had never seen before-- totally breath taking.

One of the 1000 different types of bananas

Matilda and I tasting one of the 300 different types of edible bananas
Each banana takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes to digest
(so we ate a lot of them)


Me standing next to the tallest herb in the world!!











I also went to Trois-Ilets a few days ago with these folks. To me, the boat ride to get there was the best part.


 Of course, the beach was pretty good too :)
And check out this really cute piña colada. Generally, I can't bring myself to pay for drinks (c'est trop cher!), but the pineapple is what sold me.



Les vacances de Carnaval have been incredible-- but now it's time to get back to school tomorrow (and mountains of homework today.) Funny how that happens. Sunsets like this one sure make it hard to complain though. I am so fortunate to be here-- most of the time I still can't believe it.

À plus...

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Mercredi des Cendres

The final day of Carnaval was by far the most beautiful. Joscelin, Youma, Joby and I drove to Saint-Pierre to spend the day at Joby's parents house. From 11h00 to 20h00, about 25 of Joby and Youma's relatives danced, ate, made music, and of course, chatted. I feel so honored to have been a part of this year's Mercredi des Cendres.

Joby's brothers and nephew crumble bread
to make the first layer of the meal
Lunch was probably my favorite part of the whole day. Not only was the food incredible (3 day old bread, sliced bananas, chicken, and spiced sauce), but it was prepared, eaten, and cleaned with so much community, tradition, and grace.

Joscelin, Joby, and other male family members
wait around the table, singing, drinking, chatting,
and generally looking hungry
For starters, women prepare the table and the plastic cloth (traditionally a banana leaf) so that the men can serve the food-- a layering process where no dishware is necessary. During this time everyone is singing and moving about the room. When the time comes to eat, everyone squeezes in around the table (standing) and places their left hand around the person to their left and then starts eating from the communal pile with their right. Traditionally, only men could eat this meal but the times are a-changing so now all folks can join in. This was such a beautiful experience. Talk about really being connected with what you're eating and those who you are eating with.

After the meal, everyone washed up and the men headed outside to start making more music while some women stayed behind to clean up. The music playing and dancing went on for hours (and was only interrupted to get more drinks or to stand and cheer on the Carnaval marching past. Carnaval in Saint-Pierre is much more intimate than what I experienced in Fort-de-France. The parade was generally made up of about 30 people, but the noise and energy that they made could have outdone a parade of 200.


Youma singing along
Joby rocking out after lunch


Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Carnaval

This past week has been pretty nuts. Carnaval, no school, a house party at my house, traveling to Trois-Ilets, exploring Schoelcher solo for hours, a sailboat festival, having my first traditional l'eau de coco, hanging on the beach (of course)... I don't even know where to begin. So here are some pics of Carnaval and you can just see for yourselves :)

Matilda and I were originally shown around Carnaval by
a couple of her friends. Yes, he's wearing a nightie because
there had been a pajama party in the streets that morning


Matilda and I (and Joscelin who was taking the photo)

Everyone else

Everything is to the heart-pounding beat of drums






During the parade, there are many different types of traditional dances




As well as decorated cars







Most people dress as women (except on Monday, when men dress as women and women dress and men and then they get married)


Amy Winehouse in the flesh(es)!


...and except on Tuesday, when everyone wears red and dresses like Satan




Sophie with Satan





Monday, February 20, 2012

"Does the white flag make for a perfect blindfold?" --Andrea Gibson

"Is this all that man is capable of?"
Youma told me that when she was watching the news the other day she learned that 80% of doctors in Martinique are white. This is disgusting considering that white people make up only 5% of the population here. We both put our elbows on the table, our head in our hands, and asked the space in between us how this could be possible. How is it that there are so many noirs here with an education, with the right qualifications, with integrity... who are unemployed? How can it be possible that white people from the metropole can strut over here, flash their white face, their white collar, their white degree.. and be handed high paying jobs here?

I also want to add that I have not seen one black gendarme here. Not one. I asked Youma and Joby about this and they just said "yes, it's true. There are not many black gendarmes here." I asked them why they thought that was and all they said was: "colonialism." When I asked them if they thought the gendarmes were fair in their judgements and actions, they said, "yes. They do their job. They're fair-- but they're not one of us."
Wikipedia defines gendarmerie as such:
In comparison to civilian police forces, gendarmeries may provide a more disciplined force whose military capabilities (e.g., armored group in France with armored personnel carriers) make them more capable of dealing with armed groups and with all types of violence. On the other hand, the necessity of a more stringent selection process for military service, especially in terms of physical prowess and health, restricts the pool of potential recruits in comparison to those a civilian police force could select from.
It's no coincidence that those who are recruited "in terms of physical prowess and health" have white skin. It's no coincidence that white men have been taught to both desire and expect to hold positions of power over others. Likewise, it is strategic that people of color here, especially those of African decent, have been put in positions of powerlessness, degraded for centuries, and taught to have low self-esteem. It is no coincidence that most, or dare I say all social, political, and economic structures are set up to empower those with white skin and therefore, dis-empower people of color -- Thereby, creating a place where 1 in 2 black Martinicans are unemployed while white folks from the metropole move here to buy million-euro mansions on the beach (or so Youma heard on the local news.)

The more I read, the more I see, the more I learn, the more truth I find in this commonly cited quote:
La colonisation, la traite négrière, l’esclavage et tous leurs corollaires (pillage, vol, viol, massacre, épuration ethnique, génocide, aliénation culturelle, domination économique, répression et éradication de toute contestation, racisme, soumission de la classe politique locale, ...) ont assuré et assurent encore aujourd’hui à la France ses richesses, sa puissance et son autorité.
Also, the more I reflect, the more I realize that one could replace the word "France" with "Etats-Unis" and the statement would still hold true. The history of these two nations is not identical, but there are so many commonalities in the methods of domination and of course, in the legacies of colonization. It's no wonder that the U.S. and France are such good buddies.

"Struggle against oppression:
- Very little freedom
- No equality
- No fraternity."

Also, why did I have to come here to start making these connections between race and occupations of power and prestige? Why did I never question my lack of education about the U.S. unincorporated organized territories? Why was I never disgusted and moved to action about this before? Oh yeah, because I wasn't paying attention-- just like I'd been taught in school, at home, in society, in my skin.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

As for what I've been up to in the past week or so...

We think there's a sunken ship over there...
We're hoping to get some scuba gear to check it out

 Last weekend it rained. Buckets. Even though the weather is like that for over half of the year here, folks don't like to go out in the rain. In fact, they just don't go out in the rain. Following suit, I spent Friday and Saturday mostly hanging out at home catching up with the splendid folks that I live with. On Sunday, the sun finally came out, so Joscelin and I dutifully spent the day at the beach.

My favorite beach. A person can really think here :)

This is not just an attempt at being artsy,
but you can also barely see a dedicated group
of ladies who do daily water aerobics.
They are a chatty, charming bunch and I
hope I am half as cool as them when I grow up

I should probably stop trying to do my homework at the beach



Check out Coco (still alive and kicking)
with his new girlfriend, Poule Grise (Grey Hen).
Yes, that's her name.
 Because we were all pretty cooped up in the house, I wound up sharing some wonderful meals and conversation with my housemates as well as my two closest friends here, Matilda and Konrad.

Despite Youma's previous plans, Coco was not a part of dinner. As with many things around here, I guess that will be postponed.
Here's what Matilda and I wound up eating instead :)

and this is Matilda

and this is the Myspace self-pic that I promised earlier.
Sadly, I didn't snap any pics at our family dinner (plus, Konrad). It was a really cool Créole dinner with some incredible cooking (no thanks to me). It was the first time that we have had the whole house all together at once and it was so great to see how we all click. So much laughter, so much good company, and once again, so many lessons.